With the passenger door all clean and protect5ed with the window winder mechanism rebuilt, I took the opportunity to do the same on the drivers side today, but remembered to take pics of the window winder part.
With the trim panel removed, I was pleased to see that is was just as original and rust free as the other side, complete with factory chalk markings.

After a quick wipe over with a rag, the door bottoms revealed themselves to be equally as perfect.



The metal channel on the bottom of the door glass has a channel in the reverse side of it where a roller wheel runs up and down as the regulator moves the window up and down.


First job is to undo the four 10mm bolts that secure the regulator in place and withdraw it from the door. The roller wheel just pulls out of the end of the door class channel.


I love finding date stampings on components!

Like I said, my drivers window wasn't as bad as the passenger side and there was still a bit of dried and crusty grease on the roller wheel.

Which when cleaned up and lubricated should look like this.

After that picture was taken, I caked it in fresh grease and also cleaned out and re-greased the channel on the bottom of the glass.

As well as greasing the mechanisms, it is also a good idea to lubricate the window guise channels. The best stuff for this is silicone spray which lets the glass glide up and down with very little resistance.



Once all assembled, it works perfectly, silently and effortlessly - just like new. Before I put the door card back on, I flooded the door bottoms with sealing wax.

Just before I sign off, I did a little experiment last time I drove the car to see if it really was oil tight, so left some white gloss panels under the car for a few days. I rolled the car forwards today....

Nice.
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