My Barn Find '57 Oval· Page 27 · International Vintage Volkswagen Forums

Last Triumph
pre67vw Junkie Topic Starter

14 years ago

I am extremely impressed with your barn find and the quality of your work. You should do that professionally.

TSAF wrote:

That's very kind - wish I could.

I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...

Last Triumph
pre67vw Junkie Topic Starter

14 years ago

#522

Just a quickie..... does can anyone point me in the direction of correct, original shocks please?

The rears are finished, so I guess the fronts are too.

I'm wrestling with part numbers left right and centre and think I've got it covered...

According to my research, the current BOGE part numbers that are compatible with the original VW items are:-

Sachs 195 431 (F) and 195 440 (R)
Boge 27-162-8 (F) and 27-720-9 (R)

Anyone know where I can get these please?

Oh, and the spacer gaskets that fit between the axle tube cover plates and the box?

Ta muchly.

I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...

Mike Peckham
pre67vw Junkie

14 years ago

#523

Oh, and the spacer gaskets that fit between the axle tube cover plates and the box?

Last Triumph wrote:

VW Heritage have the spacer gaskets, you need to buy a selection so that you can mix and match the different thicknesses when you come to putting the covers back on to get the clearances right.

I bought replacement shock absorbers for my '57 from the local VW agent of all places!

Mike 😎

July 1957 UK supplied RHD Oval. 1972 World Champion Beetle. 1978 UK supplied RHD 1303LS Cabriolet. 1973 UK supplied RHD 1303s.

harveypj
Stock "Wolfie" Smith

14 years ago

#524

One piece gaiters will go on from the other end. Heat them up in boiling water, lube them and the dishes with cooking oil, then stretch them over inside out turning them the correct way round once in position.

Last Triumph wrote:

:o that is a tight fit, you'd have thought the gater would tear. Handy to know its possible though.
I forgot about the inside out bit as I watched the clip and thought for a minute the guy had put it on the wrong way around:lol: now that would have been disapointing.

Edited by user 14 years ago | Reason: Not specified

Stock......the new custom

Last Triumph
pre67vw Junkie Topic Starter

14 years ago

#525

First job today was to remove the motor from it’s trolley stand and ‘rest’ it safely in the corner of the garage. It was now the turn of it’s best friend the gearbox to sample the lofty heights... As I knew that today was going to be a messy day, and even though it was only 3 degrees, I set up camp outside.

To remove the other axle tube, I first needed to send out a search party to help find the bolts!

After some brake cleaner and a tooth brush, I could at least now see the bolts. This initial clean of the joint also reduces the chance of getting crud in the box.

With the axle tube and side plate removed, I could now see the spacer gaskets – just like the other side, two thick ones and a thin one.

Oh look – that’s where the axle goes!

Next up was to remove the rest of the hardware – mainly the mounts and starter motor, which is the correct dated original item. The mounts are in great shape and can be used again.

Why are there two drain plugs?

Gearbox looking pretty bare now!

At this point I knew I had some cleaning ahead..... crack open the jet fuel chaps!

What a 'tool!'

After a very long time with the jet fuel, brake cleaner and my usual assortment of brushes, I got things back to their 'natural' state.

As the pictures show, it was now getting dark and very cold, so I called it quits for the night and wheeled the box back into the garage to keep warm.

Next job will be to clean the actual gearbox - joy!

I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...

Dakota
Regular

14 years ago

#526

Hi
I really like this thread especially the lateral thinking versus cash aspect of it, I would say that my personal approach to repairs to rather filthy engines and gearboxes etc is to use water soluble degreaser and a jetwasher on them before removing any parts that may let the filth on the outside into the internals I guess the issue is wether where your working has a place with drainage etc where you can let go with degreaser and Karchers finest, but giving them a good clean before setting to with a spanner lets you see what your dealing with and makes the whole buisiness of working on them rather more pleasant and it can save time later.I would also suggest that you dismantle anything washed with plenty of water as soon as is possible so any moisture that does find its way in hasn't the time to do any harm, thats just my thoughts, that gearbox should be pretty well preserved under all that crud, and no salt in Portugal the corrode it to buggery.

JD
pre67vw Junkie

14 years ago

#527

Tell me you´re going to use new gearbox mounts! I took mine off the other weekend and they were like chewing gum! The motor was sitting all wrong due to them.

And great work - keep it up fella!

Edited by user 14 years ago | Reason: Not specified

"John, you need to get a grip and STOP MOANING AT EVERYTHING. ThumbDown "

Last Triumph
pre67vw Junkie Topic Starter

14 years ago

#528

Hi
I really like this thread especially the lateral thinking versus cash aspect of it, I would say that my personal approach to repairs to rather filthy engines and gearboxes etc is to use water soluble degreaser and a jetwasher on them before removing any parts that may let the filth on the outside into the internals I guess the issue is wether where your working has a place with drainage etc where you can let go with degreaser and Karchers finest, but giving them a good clean before setting to with a spanner lets you see what your dealing with and makes the whole buisiness of working on them rather more pleasant and it can save time later.I would also suggest that you dismantle anything washed with plenty of water as soon as is possible so any moisture that does find its way in hasn't the time to do any harm, thats just my thoughts, that gearbox should be pretty well preserved under all that crud, and no salt in Portugal the corrode it to buggery.

Dakota wrote:

I'm not using water, so no worries.

I'll be gently scraping all the crud off with a plastic spatula, then using jet fuel and brake cleaner to remove the fine film left on it with gentle brushes - after sealing up the axle apertures.

For the record - cash is not a factor in any decision I make during the recommission. Every decision I have made has been dictated by a quest for sympathy and originality.

Don't get me wrong, I'm by no means whatsoever flush, but if I was going to be held back by funds, I'd not have bought an Oval! :lol:

I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...

Last Triumph
pre67vw Junkie Topic Starter

14 years ago

#529

Tell me you´re going to use new gearbox mounts! I took mine off the other weekend and they were like chewing gum! The motor was sitting all wrong due to them.

And great work - keep it up fella!

JD wrote:

Wasn't planning it to be fair....

The front one is perfect and rock solid.

The rear ones are very good with just a slight softness to a couple of edges.

You think it's worth changing the rears as a precaution?

I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...

Last Triumph
pre67vw Junkie Topic Starter

14 years ago

#530

Tell me you´re going to use new gearbox mounts! I took mine off the other weekend and they were like chewing gum! The motor was sitting all wrong due to them.

And great work - keep it up fella!

JD wrote:

Wasn't planning it to be fair....

The front one is perfect and rock solid.

The rear ones are very good with just a slight softness to a couple of edges.

You think it's worth changing the rears as a precaution?

I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...

JD
pre67vw Junkie

14 years ago

#531

Well, if they seem alright and the motor was sitting correctly, then I suppose you could keep them. Just wanted to say that there could be a problem.

"John, you need to get a grip and STOP MOANING AT EVERYTHING. ThumbDown "

54 Gertie
pre67vw Junkie

14 years ago

#532

Looking at your mounts, I would personally look to replace them. They look okay but you may as well change them, and keep the old ones for the old parts museum. If the gearbox/engine are able to twist easily, then you may come accross problems like it wanting to pop out of gear, 4th expecailly.

Your front most mounts looks okay, but the backs do look good and soft.

William

GKL 7
pre67vw Junkie

14 years ago

#533

You think it's worth changing the rears as a precaution?

Last Triumph wrote:

YES

Last Triumph
pre67vw Junkie Topic Starter

14 years ago

#534

Chaps - I've decided to change all three mounts.

Someone else said that he bet my rears were going soft and my front mount had gone hard....

So I checked, and yes, the front one is like stone, which is a sign that it is old and petrified and as was suggested to me, will transmit unwanted noise, harshness and vibration into the cabin.

Got another container of jet fuel delivered today so I can give the box several good flushes to get it nice and clean inside.

Whilst we're talking trans oil - two questions....

1) What grade / spec should I use (crosses fingers that BMW have an equivalent LOL, wink wink, as that's who I work for in case you didn't already know),

2) How much oil do I need to correctly fill it and the axle tubes from totally bone dry?

Out of interest - a little medal has appeared under my avatar - something to do with thread of the year....???? :oops: Wow - wasn't expecting that, thanks whoever is responsible, I'm sure it's not really deserved.

I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...

Dakota
Regular

14 years ago

#535

Hi,
here's me sticking my neck out so my head can be chopped off, for gearbox oil go for a plain 90 grade as I have read in a number of places over the years that the additives in EP 90 can attack brass, bronze etc, basically materials found in older gearboxes and as for filling you squirt it in the fill hole until it comes back out but with the axle tubes horizontal not drooping as you end up putting too much oil in.

Last Triumph
pre67vw Junkie Topic Starter

14 years ago

#536

After a rough day at work, I needed cheering up, so went for a rummage in my NOS box of treasure and found what is a most splendidly convenient find.... well, two actually.

Wow, a set of genuine NOS rear axle seal kits and a door mirror for good measure. I needed one of those too. Most excellent!

I think I'll open my own NOS theme park.... never fails to cheer me up!

I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...

harveypj
Stock "Wolfie" Smith

14 years ago

#537

1) What grade / spec should I use (crosses fingers that BMW have an equivalent LOL, wink wink, as that's who I work for in case you didn't already know),

2) How much oil do I need to correctly fill it and the axle tubes from totally bone dry?

Last Triumph wrote:

If you look in the back of your Bentley manual there should be additional workshop bulletins that cover lubrication.

I have the 1958-60 manual, lubrication for gearbox states EP80 or 90 depending on ambient temps expected. 90 for uk. (80 for colder climates).
From memory I think 2.5 liters is required for a complete fill. I'll check later today when I get up (I'm on night shift at the mo)

Morris oil do a 80w/90 multigrade EP gear oil, they also do a non EP straight 90 in their classic range.

Pete

Edited by user 14 years ago | Reason: Not specified

Stock......the new custom

GKL 7
pre67vw Junkie

14 years ago

#538

a little medal has appeared under my avatar

Last Triumph wrote:

Credit where credit is due.
Most excellent thread.

harveypj
Stock "Wolfie" Smith

14 years ago

#539

Just checked....
Bulletin dated Oct 61
EP SAE90 for temps above -10degsC (14degsF)
EP SAE80 for temps below -10
They also warn that you should not leave hypoid (EP) type oil in the transmission if it is to be laid up for a few months and should be drained and filled with anti corrosion oil.
There is another earlier bulletin that is not clear on its date that states regular SAE90 should be used, also highlighting corrosion and seal hardening properies of the hypoid type oils.

assuming your 57 will get little or no winter use I recon a regular SAE90

https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/scripts/prodview.asp?idcat=115&idProduct=16
2.5L for initial fill
axle shafts hold between 0.4 and 0.8L depending wether the car is jacked up or not so future oil changes only need around 2L

Edited by user 14 years ago | Reason: Not specified

Stock......the new custom

Last Triumph
pre67vw Junkie Topic Starter

14 years ago

#540

Just checked....
Bulletin dated Oct 61
EP SAE90 for temps above -10degsC (14degsF)
EP SAE80 for temps below -10
They also warn that you should not leave hypoid (EP) type oil in the transmission if it is to be laid up for a few months and should be drained and filled with anti corrosion oil.
There is another earlier bulletin that is not clear on its date that states regular SAE90 should be used, also highlighting corrosion and seal hardening properies of the hypoid type oils.

assuming your 57 will get little or no winter use I recon a regular SAE90

https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/scripts/prodview.asp?idcat=115&idProduct=16
2.5L for initial fill
axle shafts hold between 0.4 and 0.8L depending wether the car is jacked up or not so future oil changes only need around 2L

harveypj wrote:

Thanks for that - bugger, and I had a supply of 'free' EP90 on tap as well! :roll:

Any suggestions for a high street supply of SAE90?

Few questions if I may? - I need to replace the hexagonal spacer gaskets for the gearbox side cover plates for correct clearance.... I measured the three that came off each side as 2x 0.3mm and 1 x 0.1mm - or that's what they are after years of compression...

How do I measure what is required?

And also, I see Heritage only stock 0.25mm and 0.3mm new ones, which in theory, won't give me the same as I had. What do people normally do and how critical is the spacing?

Secondly, I need new rear shocks as the originals are in a state of retirement. I want to fir original BOGE items and have found them at KK, although they are black in colour instead of the original dark red. Are the dark red ones a thing of the past and am I wasting my time in trying to find a set in dark red, or should I get a life and just be happy that they are OEM and correct spec and just fit black ones... I need a reality check!

Oh, and I found a set of genuine VW original engine mounts today which are now in the post, so that's a result!

Ta.

I can supply...
25/36hp Crank-Flywheel shims - 3 sizes
NOS king pin thrust & fibre washers - all sizes
Cloth braided nitrile fuel hose safe for modern fuels
PM me for details...

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