Miracles really do exist, just as well that take pictures of everything that has to do with finding such a pearl, you are very lucky, the Oval this whole you enjoy it as a show the last picture already doing, greetings from Paraguay South America! !:d :d :d

tipo3 wrote:

The gauze filter is attached to a metal ring which is trapped in place when the fuel tap is installed.

I trust you have the fuel tap out and 'on the bench'? If so, just prize the metal ring up from the body of the tap with a small screwdriver etc and it should just come free.

It might be glued in place with years of fuel 'varnish' etc. Good luck.

Last Triumph wrote:

Where are you getting your shims from?Been looking for some myself.

Mike

Sunroof53 wrote:

Answers on a postcard before the cobwebs start to build up. 😞

Last Triumph wrote:

Can't you get a friendly engineering shop to machine some up for you :?:

55Kab wrote:

Just out of interest ,what is your endfloat with your original shims ?.You can gain 0.1mm by leaving out the paper gasket between the flywheel and crank and maybe use loctite instead .

Sunroof53 wrote:

Sorry - can't make any shows this weekend - I'm working, like most weekends... :roll: Badly in need of a career change, but thats a long running saga not for this thread...

With the 3 original 0.3 shims in place, I'm at 0.2 - 0.21 depending on how hard I pull the flywheel, so yeah, if I ditched the paper gasket, I guess I'd be there...

But....


It doesn't seem the right thing to do to be honest. I don't know it's exact purpose but imagine it's there for a reason???

I might have tracked down someone with a few lying around in their shed and am just waiting to hear...

Last Triumph wrote:

Unlucky with the head damage Andy. But that repair work is fantastic!

Rich Oakley wrote:

Personally i would be happy at 0.2 ,as you are using the original bearings .I also believe that the paper seal was disscontinued on later engines as too many flywheels came loose.later engines had an o ring in the flywheel so the faces could be metal to metal for a more positive location.Maybe you could phone a volume engine builder for advice .Terrys beetle services build these engines so maybe worth a call to put your mind at rest or may even have a .25 shim .

Mike

Sunroof53 wrote:

Hi
I think you will find the crank shims are the same as dimentions as those used in Porsche 356 engines so you could try Roger Bray in EXETER 01404 822005 or Karmann Konnection or PRS services in Essex , Bill.

Dakota wrote:

I have some spare shims I will see what I have kicking about.

Dakota wrote:

I've got someone sending me their spare shims for me to route through - hopefull there'll be a combination in there that works.

Failing that, I'll give Peter E. a call as I've dealt with him before and I know he's good with early stuff...

As for the paper gasket... what is it's purpose? Does it provide a seal for anything?



Opinions please?

Last Triumph wrote:

It is described as a gasket in the VW manuals so it does provide sealing as later flywheels had an O ring instead that fitted in the counterbore of the flywheel.The VW manual tells you to measure the depth of the counterbore and the distance from the crank to bearing face to calculate end float.It says that the gasket is 0.2mm and compresses to 0.15 but my experience is 0.1 using an aftermarket seal kit.I think the reason for measuring is so you dont compress the new gasket when you are trial fitting otherwise you need a new one for the final fit.
Another thing i found is that if you only half torque the bolt for trial fitting the gasket can crush some more when you go to the VW figure of 217 lbs which can cause a problem if you are on the low side of the limit.

Sunroof53 wrote: