Way cool 😎 nice job :!:

It´s really nice to see an Oval from my country looking so nice :wink:

All the best

cheers

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Looks good ! I personally fit the silencer when its in the car as it makes the engine fitting a lot easier.

Mike.

Good advice Mike,tight fit with the silencer in situ,very easy to mark the rear valance.

Interesting - when I removed it, the biggest clearance issue I found was the dynamo pulley bolt wanting to foul the valance on the way down. Couldn;t push the motor any further forwards as the input shaft was catching the bell housing.

The exhaust didn't seem and issue, although I'm sure going up is tricker than going down... I can always take it off again in 5 mins...

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Little bit of an update for you....

As I now had all the parts necessary to complete the dynamo rebuild, I started from the armature and built it up from there. Forgive the plentiful pictures, but it might be of some use to someone in the future to know the exact order and orientation that all the components fit.

https://www.volksgoods.co.uk/  who supplied me with new bearings and brushes etc and a bit of help on the telephone late at night when I needed some urgent questions answering – a really great chap if ever there was one – highly recommended. And thanks to Fuzzyduck too, who came to the rescue at the eleventh hour!

I started with the refurbished armature and compared the new brushes and bearings against the old ones. Note that the modern bearings are a closed ZZ design which has a metal seal capable of withstanding high temperatures. These are size 6202-2ZZ if anyone is looking for them. They are pre-packed and zero maintenance, unlike the originals which need re-packing with special grease.





This picture shows the components in the order that they fit into the end cap of the dynamo (fan end).





With the main locator ring hard up against the circlip on the shaft, the end cap slides up against it.





Followed by the securing spacer ring which is a tight press fit. I had to use a socket to drift it home.







With everything in place, don’t forget the woodruff key...





I decided to keep the fan securing plates, shims and bolt on the end of the armature out of harms way. This end is now complete.







Note that I wrapped the armature windings with tape to reduce the chance of damaging them during assembly.





And now to the commutator end (pulley end) of the assembly... Like the fan end, the bearing end stop plate goes on first, hard up against the circlip ring.





Followed by the bearing, and then the dust shield. Now that I;m using sealed bearings, the dust shield’s only purpose is for correct spacing of the components on the shaft.





Again, the spacer collar is a press fit and needed drifting on with a socket, followed by the insertion of the woodruff key.









And there it is – all finished and ready to go back in the body.





Next up was to fit the new brushes into the rear end plate that I’d cleaned earlier.





Some of you may remember that parts of the original cloth insulation had rotted away leaving bare wires. Well, they’re not strictly bare as they are coated in enamel, but I wanted to protect them anyway. This gave me something of a quandary and I had to choose between using original new cloth braided cables which would have meant heavily disturbing the internal wiring, which might be in a work hardened and brittle state and potentially induce problems, or leave the wiring as it is and find a way to insulate the wires without disturbing them. After seeking advice from a couple of experts, they all said the same thing – leave it well alone and just add insulation where needed – which is exactly what I did.

Thanks to Dad (yet again) he had dome very fine high temp silicone tubing of the perfect internal diameter for the wire which we carefully split open, cut it to the exact length required, fitted it over the bare wires then sealed them closed again. It turned out fantastically and as the tube is clear, you can see the wire’s condition inside. Really please with this little fix that allowed me to retain all the original wiring!







And with the armature back inside...







I then cleaned up the original voltage regulator under belly....





And assembled the other end cap using the two long through bolts. Looks a bit more like it now!





With the large rear (front?) backing plate in position, it was time to fit the fan. It gets torqued up to 47 ft/lbs and I used some loctite as well, just in case.











Note that there are spacer shims to allow you to adjust the fan back spacing from the rear mounting plate which should be 1.7mm with as little run out as possible, preferably nothing visually noticeable.

After fitting the front pulley, it’s all ready to go back into the fan housing now.











Before the entire assembly is offered up to the motor, I remembered to fit an original cardboard gasket that seals the open generator stand and stops oil leaking out the top from under the dynamo. It’s helped along with a little sealer.







And after a bit of diddling to get the bottom of the fan housing inside of all the cylinder tins top edges, I finally have what looks almost like a complete motor!







I then added the genny strap and a few other bits n bobs too dull to photograph.

At the rear, I bolted up my rare and original oil cooler support stand which was only fitted for a few month at the end of ‘56 to mid ‘57. As a May ‘57 engine, mine must be one of the very last to have this device.





Next up was to fit and adjust the cooling air control ring which is a venturi style device that restricts the amount of air that the fan can draw when cold, then via a lever linked to the thermostat, as the engine reaches operating temperature, the ring pulls out from the housing a little to let the cooling air in as shown in the second picture. A really neat device.







It must however be set up correctly. To do this, the engine needs to be at operating temperature...... er...... hmmmm...... Ah, yes, let me re-phrase that – the thermostat needs to be fully open to it’s maximum expanded length, hard up against the mounting bracket.

After a quick head scratching session, I came up with a cunning plan. Whilst Mrs LT wasn’t looking, I sneaked her hair dryer out of the house and into the garage and set it up to blow hot air directly at the thermostat from the rear of the heater box outlet....





Which did a grand job of expanding the thermostat to the required fully open position.





When the thermostat is in this position, the top centre of the fan control ring needs to be set at a gap of 20mm from the fan housing. Too little and you risk not getting enough cooling air to the motor under high loads – too much and the ring can come out too far resulting in the inside of the venturi fouling the fan. I endeavoured to set it perfectly. When it is correctly set and the motor cools down, there should be a decent spring tension from the thermostat holding the control ring in the closded position.







And that, my dear friends, is all I had time for tonight – it is my birthday after all!

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Keep up the fantastic work, I'm looking forward to when it gets started up!

Happy Birthday!

Keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing.

Happy Birthday!:beer:

I love it, superb! cant wait to see it running! :d

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just fom memory, do you not have to re polorise the dynamo ???? i remember reading something about it


great thread!!!

Only if it needs it...
:beer:

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And for tonight's little instalment....

The clutch was next on the hit list. I;d not really given it a second glance since I;d pulled the engine out other than to confirm it was indeed a clutch as VW promised.

Both the pressure plate and the friction disc were as grotty and dirty as expected, so I cleaned the pressure plate in the jet fuel, followed by a thinners bath, then finally a good spray with clutch and brake cleaner which left it perfectly clean.

The friction disc got the thinners bath and brake cleaner, but not the jet fuel as I didn't want to contaminate it with any kind of oil, no matter how thin.







It was at this point I noticed some stampings on the components that I wanted to see in more detail, so I took a wire brush to those areas for some discovery...


Nice...



Nicer...



Really nice...



And the nicest of all things that were ever nice...!




Hooray - it's the original clutch pressure plate!

There was only one marking on the friction disc, so I took a peek.... surely it couldn;t be.... could it?





*Austin Powers Voice* - Yeah Baby!

And there's loads of meat left on it too!





This is certainly one for the genuine mileage check list!

So, with everything cleaned and degreased, I offered up the friction plate using the very handy clutch alignment tool.







Then I offered up the pressure plate, which has these little tags machined on to allow a precise location fit within the flywheel - make sure that none of these catch the edge of the flywheel as you tighten the bolts as you risk damaging and distorting the pressure plate without realising it until it;s too late.





The (freshly cleaned) clutch bolts get torqued up to 25 ft/lbs in a criss-cross pattern, a little at a time to ensure an even seat on the flywheel, at which point the friction disc will be correctly centred and the alignment toll can be removed.







Which left me with just one last job to do - clean and fit the air cleaner.
No pics of it getting cleaned as that is too dull even for me, but here it is, proudly sitting on top of one very loved and cared for original 30hp motor.







And there it is chaps - all done!





It took a while, but I got there in the end and I'm really quite pleased with the end result, especially as I've never rebuilt an engine before. I've loved every minute of it and can't wait to do another for someone when mines all done and on the road.

Obviously I'll keep the champagne on ice until it fires and runs, but I sleep easily in the knowledge that I've done the very best and most thorough job I'm capable of, which finger crossed, should see it fit for service for some time to come.

Hope it;s been of some help to folks out there - I've certainly learned an awful lot along the way.

Night all..

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Very helpful, thanks - one for the [knowledge] 'bank' as they say. :lol: I'll definitely be referring to this thread when I get around to tackling my 30HP rebuild.

Staying tuned here for the LT-TV broadcast of the first fire-up! :beer:

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Fantastic bit of preservation work. Echo above: looking forward to the start up clip!

Yep, top, top job Andy. Going back a few pages it made me smile how far you and this engine have come given you had put up a reasonable fight not to remove it!

Also looking forward to seeing it fire up...but on to the tranny now eh?

...and oh yeah, belated Happy Birthday!

Sorry for the lack of updates recently, I've been doing some late nights at work and the small amount of time I've had has been spent re-wiring the garage, installing new electrical sockets, re-positioning some wall cabinets and commissioning some new equipment...

At last, I've got the set up as I want it - all I need to do now is move the walls another 6 feet further apart! It's the best I can do with an 8' wide space.

Note my new drill press, bench grinder and monster jack!







As usual, this swallowed far too much of the day, and by the time I'd got everything cleaned up and in it's rightful place, it was nearly 4pm and whilst I'd intended to remove the gearbox today, I just finished off by getting it jacked up and on axle stands, wheels and drums removed and ready for action.

To be fair, having just done 13, 11 hour days straight without a day off, I've not much energy left if I'm honest.

However, the day did bring two bits of good news....

Firstly, when I got the rear drums off, I was delighted with how neat, tidy and original everything inside was. The star adjuster wheels were perfectly free to move and everything looks very serviceable indeed. Even the rear brake shoes are in great condition. I suspect most of this will clean up a treat.

I'm not even sure I'll need to use the NOS cylinders now??

Another one for the genuine low mileage list is that the insides of the original drums are superb with hardly any wear at all - hardly even the slightest lip on the shoe face...









My second bit of good news is the biggun'..... Now I know this is one incredibly solid bug which has never seen a welder in it's life, but I was always slightly reluctant to investigate the rear inner arches too deeply yet, as they are the last undiscovered part of the car and I was worried the bubble would burst and I'd find a little nasty in there somewhere.

The inside of the arches was absolutely caked in dried on mud and dirt, almost half an inch thick in places, so there was nothing else to do other than put on a dust mask, crank up the workshop vacuum, and with a dust pan and brush, investigate what I had.

OMG !!!! Unbelievable!!!!!









I can't believe it - not the slightest little scrap of rot. Everywhere just wipes clean, and the light surface patina rubs off with a nylon brush!!!

Am I a happy boy or what!!!

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Update time!

Next up was to remove the gearbox. I haven't taken loads of pics of all the steps of removal as everything was so dirty and crusty it wouldn't actually show anything.

When everything is all cleaned up - I'll show all the pictures as it all goes back together which will be the reverse of how it all came apart.

One thing I will say, other than one small screw, every nut and bolt came off without a hitch - unbelievable! Sure, I gave everything a squirt of plusgas, but even so - everything just came undone without a hitch which makes life so much easier. I can only put this down to the dry and dusty environment it has lived in all it's life.

Anyway - a few pics to keep the speed readers happy!

In any of the pictures that show 'damp' - this is just the plusgas wetting the surrounding area.

Clutch cable came off first.





Followed by the wiring to the starter motor solenoid.





Rear inspection cover for the gear linkage came off for the first time in it's life! I really was gutted to have to cut security wire! It was one of the grub screws that held the gear selector shaft from the box into the coupling that was stubborn to remove. I ended up putting a thin allen key through the hole where the wire passes to use as a 'spanner'. Due to the awkward angles, it is very difficult to get a spanner on straight, and with it being a square head, I didn't have the correct socket. Anyway, came off in the end.





I stripped down the brakes and removed the backing plate and was prepared to have to fight and wrestle to get the bearing off, but was amazed yet again that the right hand side bearing came off with little more than finger pressure in a smooth precision 'glide'. My luck is going to run out soon - it has to! The three bolts that secure the spring plate along with the bottom shock mount all came off easily too leaving me with this....





The bearing on the left hand side was too tight to pull off with my fingers, so I tackled this later, off the car.

From underneath, I drained the oil which came out crystal clear.... which must mean it has settled over the 29 years. I noticed how it has two drain plugs.....? I'll give it a thorough flush later on.

Next up was the two front mount bolts and the two large rear ones at the end of the frame forks. Too filthy to photograph!

With a padded jack underneath, it slid back and out without a hitch.

Looking a little bare now!





Knowing what was coming next, I treated myself to a selection of pullers ranging from small to very large. The 8" one was all that was needed to pull the other bearing off. Took very little effort at all. Obviously I had to unbolt the cover plate on the side of the box to do this and was very careful to remove the spacer gaskets which consisted of two reasonably thick ones, and a very thin one. Despite my best efforts, the thin one broke during removal - no biggie.





I now had a nice little collection of parts on the bench, resting in the exact position and orientation that they were when installed for ease of cleaning and installation.





I was beckoned back indoors at this point for dinner, so didn't remove the other axle tube as this will give me something to do tomorrow. This is how things look in the garage tonight....









Can't wait to get the box all cleaned up! Plenty of farm dust/oil to have a crack at!

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😎 good going LT,
I think the toughest task of your gearbox service is likely to be extracting the pins that hold the stubbs on the end of the axle tubes.
I employed a press to get mine out, they were not seized in, just shall we say very snugg. The rest, like yours was trouble free. Had to come off though to fit the one piece gaters.

Great job on the engine by the way:beer:

Pete

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One piece gaiters will go on from the other end. Heat them up in boiling water, lube them and the dishes with cooking oil, then stretch them over inside out turning them the correct way round once in position.

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It's possible to fit one piece gaters without taking the ends off the axle tubes, it involves a bucket full of boiling water and a lot of lubrication (sounds a little like a position from the Karma Sutra :wink: ).

It's a bit of a struggle, but a lot less hassle than removing the axle brackets.

Great job by the way, I love this thread! :d

Mike 😎

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I am extremely impressed with your barn find and the quality of your work. You should do that professionally.

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