Hi

I know you are engrossed in the engine strip down and rebuild, but if you want to preserve the patina on the car try Techtyl spray on wax. I've use some on my OG paint 65 and its 10 x better than Waxoyl. It comes as a amber semi transparent wax or black wax. I used it in amber form for under the tank and front beam etc and black on the floor pan. Once dry its a bit like shoe polish, but it forms a good barrier against water and corrosion
it is manufactured by Valvoline. The codes are amber wax Techtyl 506 and the black wax is called Bodysafe. try it you'll be impressed!!

Cheers

Good grief, that's rather a raggy old looking jack isn't it? My word, is that what they use in posh car dealerships these days? I'd have been straight round to that new Peugeot dealers next door, I bet they've got some nice shiny ones in there... :beer:

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It was an old unused one sleeping in the tyre bay. The workshop is kitted out with state of the art ramps :wink:

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Thanks, I'll investigate.

I use waxoyl as firstly I've got loads of it, and secondly it comes off so easily with white spirit.

The car will never get wet, so I just wanted a light coat of something to keep moisture and humidity out.

The garage is heated.

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Hi

You can get Techtyl off with white spirit. I have a can with about 30% left in. If you send me an address I will post it to you. Just imagine it's a lovely sunny day the sun is shining so you set off for a drive. The weather suddenly changes and there is a massive thunder storm.............thanks heavens for Techtyl!

Perhaps for security I could send it to your place of work. You never know who may be reading.

Cheers

Puh. I bet the Peugeot ramps are bigger and shinier, and probably play a little fanfare when they reach maximum lift. (They'd have to be really, as they'll be working non bloody stop if the amount of broken Pugs I see is anything to go by...)

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That's very kind of you, thanks.

Is there a 'pm' facility on this site so I can send you my address?

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I can't wait for you to get stuck in..... :wink:

Well done LT, this is the right way to go. Going to be interesting to see the condition of the heads and barrels once it's all stripped down.

Ive been away and entirely missed your new car! Its absolutely wonderful! Congratulations, proof that good things come to those with patience.
:beer:

Except now you are all talking engine, so thats me out.
:lol:

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Yes! Under each post is a PM button - you can also pm from the users profile page.

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Arrived today - many, many thanks.

I've sprayed a bit on a wing to assess it's properties and will report back. From what I see, it looks good stuff, and I reckon it'd be ideal for the floor pan (inside and out), especially underneath, and on all the hidden areas like the inside of the body mounts, under the luggage tray, engine side trays, inside the rear valance etc, etc.

Where is the best place to buy it from?

How would it compare to dinitrol 3125 which is clear in colour and a bit thinner??

On another note, I ordered the empi engine stand to assist in the rebuild process.

If it arrives soon, I'll be able to start the tear down this week.

I've got an oil drum that I'll cut the bottom third off to use as a boiling pot to clean all the components is, as I can put a camping stove underneath it and boil away to my hearts content.

Regarding washing powder - is there a preferred brand to use? Biological or non-bio? Is it worth adding some other soaps and degreasers for good measure and just boiling it up in a witches brew?

Any risk of corrosion to the magnezium case or alluminium heads with the washing powder? is it caustic in any way?

Advice from anyone who has done this will help?

Cheers for now.

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hi

Glad you're happy with the outcome. Seems it was designed to give protection to all types of machinery and not just cars.

It available from Valvolines Distributor 01542 832465

cheers

I put a case in a dishwasher once and although it cleaned up fairly well the case lost its grey/gold appearance because dishwash tablets are caustic.If you want to keep its appearance as it is, i would just use a solvent.Also it made a right mess of the dishwasher and spent a long time cleaning it before the missius got home :oops:
Looking forward to the rebuild :lol:

With a rare day off, I hit the garage again with the aim to get organized for the engine rebuild. Seeing it sat there on the garage floor was just too tempting, so I did a quick supermarket sweep around the garage and with an arm full of tools, began to remove stuff…

Firstly I needed to remove the exhaust and heater boxes. My new best friend is plusgas – I cannot put in to words how wonderful this stuff is. I gave the exhaust studs a quick squirt the other day, and another go last night, and all 8 nuts came off without incident. In fact, every single fastener on the entire engine came off perfectly thanks to this stuff. Two of the studs came out the head, which is no problem and far better than them snapping, that’s for sure!





I was very impressed with the condition of the heater boxes – no rot through anywhere and just need a good clean up and rebuild. I’ll still fit the NOS ones though and keep these for spares. The lower tinware came off no problem – I always wanted to know how it all worked in there…





At this point it became blindingly obvious that it was a good idea to pull the motor, as the crud in the ports and all the cooling finds was extensive.





I then removed the inlet manifold, generator and fan housing, oil cooler and the rest of the tinware etc. Check out how much the cooling would have been impeded with all that gunk!







And then the clutch came off. No idea what this is supposed to look like, but from what I can see, it looks like a decent unit with plenty of meat left on the bone. I might replace it with a new one anyway.









At this point, I had a delivery of my new Empi engine stand!





On my way back to the garage, I noticed it was getting a little crowded in parts! Very unlike me, but what the hell, I was having a great time.





So….. the moment of truth – off with the heads! But before I did, I removed the rockers and pushrods, making sure I kept a note of which one went were etc.

I guess I now know why there was no compression on three of the cylinders now!









Yup – stuck exhaust valves.

The pistons and cylinders on the face of it, whilst coated in plenty of crusty carbon etc, actually look pretty good. The cylinders are obviously full of all the redex etc I poured into them, but there are no immediate issues jumping out at me, although I’ll have a better idea of their condition once I pull them apart and clean them properly.











Then out came one of my favourite tools ever – the torque master!

Gland nut? Piece of cake – highly recommended.







At this point I was starting to run out of space, so had to kerb my enthusiasm and get a bit of order back into the equation.





I assembled some shelving to keep the parts in a safe and orderly fashion.















And finally, I set up the motor mount on the bench, which I duly reinforced somewhat to ensure it was solidly mounted.
This is where I’ll be spending many an hour in the weeks to come I’m sure.





Not bad for one day…..

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^^^ Very good LT, so glad you decided to do this.

Got to say as you got this far, I think it's worth splitting the case to see what the condition of everything else is like.

Don't worry, it's getting the full hit - even if it's just to clean out the crud and check everything.

If it had run, I think it wouldn't have done it much good - all the junk in there, the sludge, the blocked cooling fins etc - not good.

I guess the stars are aligned for me at the moment!

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I've aquired an oil drum which I'll cut the top off and them moount on brincks with a camping stove underneath.
I'll find a non caustic washing powder and mix it with a load of general degreaser etc then boil everything for an hour or so.

Is there anything that I shouldn't do this to? I was intending to dump the lot in there...

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Dont boil the case at high temperature after you have split it.There is a chance it will warp.Maybe 30-40 deg .If you can bolt it back together and let it heat and cool gradually.You wont like doing it but i strongly recommend you pull the plugs on the oil gallerys as you cannot clean them properly without.Even when you are washing it some crud can enter the galleries or loosen off and be impossible to get out.I can post some info on how to do it but i would recommend getting a machine shop to do it foe you.

keep up the good work :d
Mike.

Great work Andy, but what a filthy engine!! Definitely worth stripping it right the way down to see what you have.

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Agreed.

Rich, have you any experience with cleaning or boiling engine components?

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